Probably the most expensive picture of me anywhere. 10 minutes before they arrived |
The Crime/Non Crime
My friend and I planned to capture some pictures of Mt Kenya
from a vantage point on your way to Kanyoni or the Mt Kenya Safari Club. We
parked ourselves at the soccer stadium used during safari rallies and waited
for dusk on camp chairs sipping tuskers.
It is one of the few occasions I think when one gets a chance to sit and
relax with a wonderful view they are not being charged for.
The arrest
Half a tusker later, a Military Police Jeep crawls up to us and
blocks our view of the dusky mountain before unceremoniously disgorging its
contents. There was 4 of them. They did
not bother to introduce themselves but their Jeep and clothes (some) said
military police. Only one was in
uniform. For a second, we thought they were about to attack us since they
started getting off the vehicle before it even stopped. They demanded our names
and asked if we were aware that we were trespassing on Military property. I
pointed out that there was no sign indicating such and in any case, the entry
to the field has a whitewashed rock inviting potential safari rally cars in.
This was met with the usual, “shika hii
vijana” (Arrest these youths) and the specious boss who was holding one of
those X-TIgi phones that can allegedly hold charge for a week and charge your
smartphone as well pretended I had said something offensive. Before we could discuss it further, we had
been relieved of our phones, our national IDs and our freedom. We were quickly cuffed and the “boss” started
telling some guy to quickly put us in the back of the jeep
and have the cars towed. At this point,
we explained we had no idea we were trespassing and we only wanted to take
pictures.
Speak of escaping rain by jumping into the ocean. They
demanded to see the pictures we had taken and some of them showed buildings
that are apparently part of the barracks in the background. At this point we were no longer trespassers
but potential Al shabaab and spies.
People have been killed for such things we were told.
Our interaction with the disciplined forces has taken less than 3 minutes so far and it is becoming clear we are not going home tonight. Unless.
Our interaction with the disciplined forces has taken less than 3 minutes so far and it is becoming clear we are not going home tonight. Unless.
Negotiations part 1
Having lived in Nairobi, I am used to cops salting you for a
bribe so that they can directly inform you they wanted to be bribed and also to
decide if you are enough of a sucker to give one. “We can call DOD and as soon as the call goes through this will be out
of our hands” the boss informed us before dramatically walking away like he
was in a scene in a Mexican soap where he had to swagger away and display
umbrage for imagined slights by the richer land owner with a bigger horse
prettier woman.
The alternative, his minions explained are that we would
spend a weekend in Military cells and probably have a case for spying in our
hands. Oh plus towing charges would be on us. There was also the motif of "eating bullets"
I know what you are thinking, “what they are suggesting is
illegal and they just want you to bribe them. You must man up and tell them to
go to hell”. On your side of the story,
I would think the same thing. However, the gentlemen are being pretty specific
on what will happen if we think we are clever enough to get away. We will “eat
a bullet”. Either they were short on
ammunition or the fact that in Swahili Risasi
(bullet) has no plural may have made me imagine we would be forced to share
the bullet. I had heard sordid stories of people being
arrested and never seen again and I am also aware that they are not above
planting “evidence” which would
facilitate a hasty “eating” of bullets and a justification. Then as my friends have a tipple in Trends
(where beer is now 200 but they have this awesome bonfire in the back) they
would say things like,, “By the way he
always had this weird vibe around him, plus no one knew where he got all that
money from” (Which money dammit!" My ghost would ask desperately trying to pee in
their drinks).
The bribe: Police vs Army
The negotiations begun in earnest
Do you know how when the police arrest you they demand like
1000 depending on the crime and you can negotiate down to 300 of 950 depending
on how hungry they are. Well, bribing the army is a whole different story.
The boss
First you have to speak to the boss who makes it clear he
wants a bribe while at the same implying you can be shot and arrested (not necessarily
in that order) for offering one.
And then you have to
pee
They separate you so each of you can negotiate independently
and hopefully increase the ante. You suggest 1000 and the hungry looking one walks away in disgust saying they cannot risk… “Mkubwa’s job for
such a measly amount”. You continue to
negotiate and ask them how much they want. Finally you get their figure. Your
combined freedoms and the bosse’s job are worth a whooping 8,000. Between the two of you, you do not have
8,000. So what do you do? You call home and have them send some money. They let
you have your phones. You are still cuffed and now that you think you may have
a chance, you want to pee. You ask permission to do so. Permission granted. No
move to take of the handcuffs though. You are like “seriously?” But you only say that in your mind. A few
drops get on the cuffs (maybe more than a few). You know what they say about
pee making cuffs spring open? Well, its rubbish. Or maybe I was too scared to produce to do the job properly . I assume most cuffed people are.
Side note. If you
were arrested by the army anytime after 7.00 PM on Saturday and cuffed. You
might want to wash your hands.
You are going to
steal my beer too?
Anyway the money arrived with my friend’s brother on a Boda
Boda. It dropped him off as he waited for us to give him a ride back home.
Clearly, “trespassing” is OK as long as you have a legitimate reason such as
delivering bribe money. Still we were 2,000 short. Once again, army-bribing
procedures depart from the standard police bribing methodology. If the police
saw 6,000 in an 8,000-bribe situation, they would quickly take the money and
run. Well, when the army says 8,000. They mean 8,000 and not a penny less. We threw in my friends unopened beer, which
the army took without asking and we MPESAd the balance. Having thus saved the ‘bosses’ job and bought
our freedom. We were instructed to drive with our lights off until we hit the
main road then never trespass on military space again. We were more than happy
to oblige.
Afterword
I might not have written this had it not been for the fact
that I went back there and I was informed that the land was open to the public and even if it was military owned. (With zero signage indicating it was military land) Every other day, civilians test
drive their cars and play football with as many as 5 cars parked there some evenings. According to one boda boda driver we were conned by the army and we are not the
first. That is something they do often
and people usually report to the chief in Kanyoni who then contacts the army.
Maybe I will make a report too. But who are we kidding?
P.S I will be paying my taxes less 4,000 since I already
paid that directly to the army whom I am told are paid with our taxes.
Have a Kenyan year
Very nice read, and that ksh 8000 photograph
ReplyDeleteis gorgeous.
Very interesting post,
ReplyDeleteWow, you write well but the pain of corruption in Kenya..... may God help us
ReplyDeleteWhat an amazing story! I like it. Thank for sharing for me to read it!
ReplyDeleteActually I am study English. And your post helps me a lot. Thanks. Hope to see more.
ReplyDeleteI am looking forward to learning more about Nanyuki and Kenya through your eyes.
ReplyDelete